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Pandora raises revenue forecast as US sales sparkle

A view of a shop of the Danish jewellery maker Pandora in Copenhagen

By Isabelle Yr Carlsson and Helen Reid

COPENHAGEN (Reuters) -Pandora, the world's largest jewellery maker, raised its full-year revenue guidance on Thursday after beating first quarter sales and profit forecasts as it won market share in the United States, its biggest market.

The Danish company's shares jumped 5% in early trading.

Pandora has invested heavily in marketing, store openings, and broadening its range of rings, necklaces, and lab-grown diamonds, though its charm bracelets ranging from $60 to more than $2,000 still make up around 60-70% of sales.

Sales jumped 11% in the first quarter to 6.8 billion Danish crowns ($977.8 million), including a 9% increase in the United States, where the brand is gaining market share even as overall demand for jewellery has weakened.

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"The reason we are gaining share fundamentally is because we keep investing in this brand," CEO Alexander Lacik told Reuters in an interview. "Even when there is a shrinking pie, you will find winners and losers."

Operating profit rose to 1.51 billion crowns from 1.26 billion a year earlier, compared with 1.32 billion expected by analysts polled by the company.

Pandora now expects organic revenue growth of 8%-10% this year, compared with 6%-9% previously. It kept its operating margin guidance at around 25%.

Charm bracelets, a staple of 90s fashion, have enjoyed a renaissance, trending on social media platforms like TikTok.

Lacik said social media contributed to Pandora's growth but was not the underlying driver.

"This is a result of the overarching programme that Pandora has been working on for many years now, and I think maybe we've hit a sweet spot with the type of audience that we're trying to serve," Lacik said.

In North America, Pandora's expansion into lab-grown diamond jewellery piqued shoppers' interest and increased their demand for the whole range of Pandora products, the company said.

China was a weak spot with sales down 17% in like-for-like terms, which Pandora blamed on a challenging market as it works to relaunch the brand there.

($1 = 6.9546 Danish crowns)

(Reporting by Isabelle Yr Carlsson and Helen Reid; Editing by Stine Jacobsen and Mark Potter)