Armani pays tribute to nature, easy summer feeling at Missoni

By Marie-Louise Gumuchian

MILAN (Reuters) - Giorgio Armani paid tribute to nature in his main line's spring collection on Saturday, using earthy tones and floral prints, while Missoni added an easy summer feeling to Milan Fashion Week.

The 85-year-old Armani, affectionately called "King Giorgio" in his native Italy, kicked off his "Earth" Spring/Summer 2020 show with his trademark trouser suits, presenting short jackets with round collars and shoulders.

In an intimate courtyard setting, models strutted in slim or loose trousers, sometimes silky with zips, flowing or slit skirts and organza parkas that had bows at the front.

Initial earthy tones in brown, dark blue and grey lightened to paler blues on suits, waistcoats and sleeveless tops, and the collection ended in light pink and grey shimmering evening wear.

"According to legend, all that remained of the nymph Echo was her voice: she was immaterial," Armani said in show notes.

"It is a metaphor of femininity but also the representation of a gradual lightening and a link with nature's elements, filtered down through creativity and imagination."

One of the most recognisable names in fashion, Armani, who greeted audiences dressed in a white shirt and dark blazer at the end of the show, put floral prints on some designs - sometimes almost faded, creating a mirage-like effect.

The designer, known for his clean and elegant cuts, decorated sheer organza tops with embroidered flowers or floral collars. Evening coats in soft pastels featured sparkling embroidery and were worn with trousers.

Long ribbons dangled off one evening poncho. Pastel-coloured ethereal gowns were topped with huge colourful boas.

Footwear consisted of Oxford style flats and transparent shoes and models carried round bags. Necklaces were usually long and layered.

With a giant outdoor pool for a catwalk, Missoni conveyed its message of an easy summer feeling from the start of its show, unveiling floaty printed dresses, loose trousers, swimsuits and long head scarves.

The fashion house, known for its signature flamed ziz-zag pattern, used plenty of prints, often mixed, on dresses and skirts including large polka dots and lots of florals.

Creative director Angela Missoni's dresses were short and flirty or long and floaty, worn over swim wear, with waistcoats or tied at the waist with scarves.

Striped or patterned shirts were light, gilets came thin and shiny, while trousers were often see-through and worn with sandals tied around the ankles. There were also sparkling trouser suits.

Models carried baskets with flowers and footwear also included colourful and dotted platform sandals.

"Summer is a feeling, a way of being and living, just as much as it is a season," Missoni said in show notes.

"Summer ... naturally calls for an easy, breezy spirit: for a freedom of views and a fluidity of mind, reconnecting with nature, living in the outdoors."

For men, there were suits in a range of colours, striped shirts and check trousers, caftan tops and patterned cardigans, often accessorised with neck scarves.

Luxury goods group Salvatore Ferragamo <SFER.MI> presented a collection it called "light, bright and designed for joyful living in the 2020s".

Designer Paul Andrew kicked off with all-white looks before moving on to softly coloured bubble skirts, tunic-like dresses, trousers that came high-waisted or cinched at the ankle and wide-leg dungarees, often in soft leather.

Silk dresses, shirts and men's swim wear were adorned in blue and green print patterns depicting Bartolomeo Ammannati's 16th century Neptune fountain in Florence.

There were also check-print shirts and skirts and knit dresses with ribbons. Andrew presented a new version of the brand's Vara shoe, with a larger front grosgrain bow, pointy toe and cinched back.

(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; additional reporting by Claudia Cristoferi; Editing by Rosalba O'Brien and Daniel Wallis)